Writing until midnight and making countless edits.
A few tears shed, but many more smiles and several bursts of honest-to-goodness laughter.
This has been a passion project for me and finally, it’s almost ready...
| Moshe Basson! |
| Spice mixes for chicken and fish |
| village streets |
| Aged t-bone |
| cooks at the Culinary Workshop |
The phone rang really early this morning. Half asleep, I heard Abdoul’s voice. “Good morning! How are you? When are you coming back? The weather is beautiful in Marrakech,” he said in one sentence.
“I’m counting the time until I can get back there!” I said as I fell back into a dreamy Moroccan state.
To round out the cast of characters on my Morocco trip…. I have to tell you about Abdoul.
Abdoul was recommended to me by Meryanne, owner of Jnane Tamsna, where I stayed with my students for 2 weeks in Morocco. She said I would love him, that he’s the guide of guides, knows everyone and won’t waste a minute of our time.
Abdoul is a guy who’s bigger than life in both stature and spirit. When I met him for the first time, I felt like I’d struck gold. And as the days passed, I got richer and richer.
Every day we wandered into the souk, the hub of life in Marrakech. It's full of bright color, a mix of sounds and smells of olive, saffron, mint and leather. And it's wild! Scooters buzzing by and hawkers selling everything from shoes and purses to ceramics and rugs.
On the first day, Lisa, one of my students saw a straw bag in the souk that she liked. She asked the price. I think the shop keeper wanted 100 dirham or about 12 bucks. Abdoul said, “We’ll give you 50!” at which point he handed her a 50 dirham bill and grabbed the bag. No fooling around.
“Hmmmmm “ I said kinda liking this guy. Nope, Meryanne was right, he won’t waste our time.
The next day in the medina or center of the old town, we passed the same woman selling straw bags. Another student, Susanne, decided she also wanted a bag. In Morocco, if you buy two of anything, it’s always cheaper. This time, since Abdoul got a better price for Susanne than the day before, he gave Lisa back a few dirham.
Yup, I really like this guy. He's not only a great bargainer, he’s honest, genuine and a great shopper showing us all of the best artisans. But what I loved most was that Abdoul showed us streets in Marrakech where no tourists venture. We saw the real souk, his medina.
And to give you an idea of his generosity… He knew we all loved food and cooking and all week he told us about this famous stew called a tangia that the men of Marrakech made.
Towards the end of the week, he came to our kitchen at Jnane Tamsna and brought all of the makings for a tangia. Don’t get tangia mixed up with tagine, a popular stew made in a conical pot. A tangia is a stew made in a tall terracotta urn that’s cooked overnight in the embers of the hammam.
In the kitchen that day, he assembled his famous tangia and carried it off to the hammam.
The last night, as we sat for dinner by the pool drowning in the light of a thousand candles and live Moroccan music, there was Abdoul, carrying the tagine, still warm from the embers.
Was it delicious? It was as warm, inviting and wonderful as Abdoul!
Oh, delicious too!
Abdoul's Tangia
6 pounds beef shanks
I'm a cooking teacher and anyone who has taken a class with me will be surprised to know that I relinquished that duty for a whole week when I was in Morocco. Was it intimidation or just a need for a vacation? Maybe a little of both.
"Class #1 will be chicken tagine," she said. The word tagine has two meanings,-- an aromatic stew and the conical terracotta vessel used for cooking the stew. I was excited.
It was fun and the assortment of tagines, both sweet and savory were amazing. I stood back and let Bahija do the teaching. BTW there were no recipes. I decided the best thing I could do was to hand scratch the recipes with pen and paper and later transfer them to my iPad. Then we could print them for everyone.

CHICKEN TAGINE BASICS
2 pieces of chicken with the skinIn the tagine, place the chicken. Sprinkle with ginger, pepper, saffron, turmeric, olive oil and onion. Rub it into the chicken.
SAVORY TAGINE WITH PRESERVED LEMONS
1/4 preserved lemonMash the garlic and cilantro in a mortar and pestle. Top the chicken with the cilantro and garlic.
Finish with the various optional ingredients. Here are a few options.
Fennel
Variations
1- Fennel and sunchokes
2- Green beans, carrots and oil-cured olives (optional but boil first)
3- Cherry tomatoes and baby zucchini
4-Tomato, quartered, peeled, carrots, green beans and zucchini
5-Artichokes with English peas
6- Fennel, artichokes and cherry tomatoes
7- Green beans, carrots, fennel, peas and cherry tomatoes
8- Carrots and sliced apples
9- Onions and tomatoes
10- Peppers, fennel, artichokes and carrots
Add 1 cup water, cover and cook on medium low heat until the chicken can be easily skewered.
Garnish with preserved lemons before serving.
SWEET TAGINE WITH HONEY
1 teaspoon ras el hanout
Optional ingredients;
Dried apricotsRub the cinnamon and ras el hanout onto the chicken.
Finish with various optional ingredients. Here are a few options:
1- Dried apricots and sultana raisins, toasted almonds and walnuts
2- Sliced tomatoes and sliced onions
3-Pitted dates stuffed with almonds, soaked sultana raisins, almonds and peeled and quartered pears
4- Pineapple 4 slices and dried apricots
5- Pear and apricot
6- Peeled and quartered apples and almonds
7- Apricots and prunes
8- Apricots and Walnuts
9- Dates stuffed with almonds and raisins
10- (Believe it or not, a Bahija invention) Bananas and dates
11- Raisins and grapes(I love this one)
Drizzle with honey just before serving.
Serves 1